Another important factor to be considered is the durability of the wood, especially in regards to moisture. If the finished project will be exposed to moisture (e.g. outdoor projects) or high humidity or condensation (e.g. in kitchens or bathrooms), then the wood needs to be especially durable in order to prevent rot. Because of their oily qualities, many tropical hardwoods such as teak and mahogany are popular for such applications.[9]
When cutting full sheets with my circular saw, I use plastic shelving units as sawhorses. The height is just right and by using three of them, I can make cuts in any direction and the plywood is fully supported. And because the shelving units are made of plastic, I can cut right into them without worrying that they’ll damage my saw blade. Plastic shelves are available for $20 at home centers. — John Tinger. Check out these tips for making long cuts with a circular saw.
Hardwoods are separated into two categories, temperate and tropical hardwoods, depending on their origin. Temperate hardwoods are found in the regions between the tropics and poles, and are of particular interest to wood workers for their cost-effective aesthetic appeal and sustainable sources.[9] Tropical hardwoods are found within the equatorial belt, including Africa, Asia, and South America. Hardwoods flaunt a higher density, around 65lb/cu ft as a result of slower growing rates and is more stable when drying.[9] As a result of its high density, hardwoods are typically heavier than softwoods but can also be more brittle.[9] While there are an abundant number of hardwood species, only 200 are common enough and pliable enough to be used for woodworking.[11] Hardwoods have a wide variety of properties, making it easy to find a hardwood to suit nearly any purpose, but they are especially suitable for outdoor use due to their strength and resilience to rot and decay.[9] The coloring of hardwoods ranges from light to very dark, making it especially versatile for aesthetic purposes. However, because hardwoods are more closely grained, they are typically harder to work than softwoods. They are also harder to acquire in the United States and, as a result, are more expensive.[9]
“I do a lot of finish-sanding freehand, without a sandpaper block, so I can smooth edges and get into nooks and crannies. But the finer grits are usually bonded to thinner paper and, at least for me, the paper is too thin and ends up tearing long before the grit wears out. So I apply duct tape to the back of the sandpaper. The sandpaper is still flexible enough to sand a tight radius and it’s far more durable. You can use this super-strong sandpaper like a shoeshine rag.” — Chuck Merchant

Simply soak a washcloth in water and ring it out a bit so it’s not sopping wet. Put the damp washcloth on the affected area. The water will wick through the wood, and that’s fine. Now, with your iron on its highest setting, place it on the damp washcloth over the affected area, and make small movements back and forth and in circles. Press down firmly and continue until your wash cloth is dry. It won’t take long to evaporate. At this point, the wood fibers are absorbing the water and should expand back to where they were originally. Continue this process and repeat by adding more water until the dents rise up to be flush with the rest of the material.
A board is considered “quarter-sawn” when the growth rings run, more or less, perpendicular to the face of the board. Quarter-sawn boards generally have straight grain and are less prone to shrinkage, compared to other boards. These factors don’t come into play with the 2x4s you use to frame a closet—but it does with the shelves and cabinetry you put into that closet; you want those boards to remain straight, flat and stable.
Es importante, que utilices las herramientas para pulir madera al menos en tres manos de lijado, siempre utilizando desde la lija más gruesa a la más fina, es decir, debes lijar toda la habitación con la lija más gruesa, luego vuelves a lijar toda la superficie con la lija mediana y finalmente repites el proceso con la lija más fina. Los sócalos y terminaciones, deben lijarse a mano con lijas finas.

Finalmente la conclusión que he obtenido de todo esto es que lo que aparentemente era una pérdida de tiempo y dinero se ha materializado en mi modo vida. Sé que con esta filosofía de vida no voy a enriquecerme aunque realmente tampoco me interesa. Posiblemente trabajando para otras empresas y ofreciéndoles mis conocimientos podría ganar más dinero y sobre todo evitarme las complicaciones incluidas de trabajar para uno mismo, pero creo que he conseguido hacer todo lo que puedes ver en mi web precisamente por haber escogido otro camino y prefiero seguir asi. Aunque pueda sonar extraño, he aprendido todo lo que sé gracias a la filosofía del "hazlo tu mismo" y del "no necesitas demasiado para trabajar con calidad".
Hardwoods, botanically known as angiosperms, are deciduous and shed their leaves annually with temperature changes.[8] Softwoods come from trees botanically known as gymnosperms, which are coniferous, cone-bearing, and stay green year round.[8] Although a general pattern, softwoods are not necessarily always “softer” than hardwoods, and vice versa.[9]
Este es el diagrama con las dimensiones en centímetros para la construcción de este práctico estante herramientas de carpintería, ebanistería o cualquier otro oficio manual. El estante esta hecho de madera contrachapada y MDF en los separadores del mismo. Este estante esta diseñado para ser colgado en un tablero perforado, tablero de clavijas o "pegboard" como se conoce en inglés, el cua ...